violence and surfing
Surfing has justly been described as meditative, even spiritual, but it also has a violent streak that goes back to the sport's very origins. Hawaiian legend tells of a handsome surfer at Waikiki who was nearly executed after riding the same wave as a high-ranking chieftess. In another incident, a prince whose board glanced off another rider during a surfing competition was later eviscerated on a ...
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Lynette MacKenzie, 1999. Photo: Ron BrazilSubscribe to view
Kala Alexander. Photo: Cory LumSubscribe to view
Lunada Bay, Palos Verdes. Photo: Leo HetzelSubscribe to view
Nat Young photo and headline from the Sydney Morning-Herald (2000)Subscribe to view
Fight scene from Big Wednesday (1978)Subscribe to view
Beach fight, Hawaii, mid 1970s. Photo: Dan MerkelSubscribe to view
Lynette MacKenzie, 1999. Photo: Ron Brazil
Kala Alexander. Photo: Cory Lum
Lunada Bay, Palos Verdes. Photo: Leo Hetzel
Nat Young photo and headline from the Sydney Morning-Herald (2000)
Fight scene from Big Wednesday (1978)
Beach fight, Hawaii, mid 1970s. Photo: Dan Merkel