EOS Features

"A RECOKONING: CALIFORNIA'S GOLDEN BOY DAVID EGGERS HAD IT ALL—UNTIL HE DIDN'T," BY DEAN LATOURRETTE (2007)

Dean LaTourrette's profile on David Eggers ran in the October 2007 issue of Surfer's Journal. This version has been slightly edited. * * * David Eggers is anxious. Just yards from the water, longboard in hand, he stops short and gazes out at the lineup at WindanSea in La Jolla, his old stomping grounds. It’s been years since he’s surfed here, surfed at all for that matter, and decades since ...

"GAVIN RUDOLPH IN HAWAII," SURFING WORLD (1971)

"Gavin Rudolph in Hawaii," no author credit, ran in an early 1972 issue of Surfing World magazine. This version has been slightly edited. * * * Gavin Rudolph has become the most controversial boardman of modern competition surfing by winning the 1971 Smirnoff Pro-Am Surfing Championships. Representing South Africa, and on his first visit to the Hawaiian Islands, the possibility of Rudolph ev...

THE RISE AND FALL OF THE BONDI MERMAIDS

A pair of gold-painted fiberglass mermaids were installed on Big Rock, North Bondi, in 1960. They were under attack from the beginning—not just from rain, sun, big surf, but vandals and angry editorialists—and not surprisingly fell apart, until the remnants of the one remaining mermaid were pried from the rock in 1976 and hauled away. A resurrection of sorts would come later, but let's start at th...

"BUT FOR THE WORK OF KAHANAMOKU, WE WOULD ALL HAVE PERISHED," DUKE'S HEROIC 1925 RESCUE AT CORONA DEL MAR

"Riverside Men Perish on Fishing Trip When Boat is Upset by Ground Swell," by A.B. Berry, was a front page Orange County Register story on June 15, 1925. This version has been slightly edited. * * * Fire men were drowned and 12 others narrowly escaped a similar fate yesterday morning at 6:45 o’clock, when a heavy ground swell, said to have been more than 20 feet high, capsized the 40-foot fis...

"KAHANAMOKU'S CONTROL OF THE BOARD WAS NOTHING SHORT OF MAVOLOUS," DUKE RIDES CORONA DEL MAR (1914)

"Kahanamoku Rides Board at Bay's Entrance," no author credit given, ran in the Orange County Register on September 14, 1914 * * * In the presence of nearly 200 persons, who were gathered on the bluffs at Corona del Mar, in power launches and canoes on the bay and on the end of the sandspit ,Duke P Kananamoku, the famous Hawaiian swimmer who last year held the world’s 50-yard swimming record o...

“THE RIDERS OF THE FOAM-FLECKED SURF WILL BE SEEN NO MORE AT CORONA DEL MAR” (1935)

"Harbor Improvement Just 'Pain in the Neck' to Riders of Surf; Ruins Sport Here," by Franklin Burke, ran in the August 9, 1935, edition of the Santa Ana Daily Register. This version has been slightly edited * * * "Paddle!" "They're humpin’ way out!" "Slide left!" "It's a feather!" Cries such as these, gleefully shouted In crude but expressive surf lingo, are heard no more at Corona De...

“SPECTACULAR SURFING CAN’T SAVE ‘NORTH SHORE’ FROM WIPING OUT,” BUFFALO NEWS (1987)

Julia Nuu's review for North Shore ran in the August 20, 1987 edition of the Buffalo News. * * * What do you get when you take the lush green North Shore of Hawaii, a dozen or so tan, muscular surfers, and one of the most hackneyed stories ever conceived? You get "North Shore," a movie that’s beautiful to look at but not so great to watch. Rick Kane (Matt Adler) wins the Arizona wavepool ch...

“‘NORTH SHORE’ CATCHES THE RIGHT WAVE,” LOS ANGELES TIMES (1987)

Michael Wilmington's review of North Shore ran in the August 14, 1987 edition of the Los Angeles Times. * * * Off the sandy coast of Oahu, a gigantic wall of water comes barreling toward shore. Curled under the wave’s cap, crouching riders glide through a tunnel of whipping spume. That’s one of the main images of "North Shore" (citywide)—a rite-of-passage teen movie set in the Hawaiian surf m...