war and surfing
Surfing was most directly affected by war during World War II. Six months after the bombing of Pearl Harbor in 1941, nearly all fighting-age surfers in America, Australia, and the territory of Hawaii had enlisted in the armed forces, "leaving the waves," as surf journalist John Grissim later wrote, "to a smattering of beachcombers, draft dodgers, kids, gentle vagabonds, and civilian locals who wor...
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John "Doc" Ball, Palos Verdes Surf Club founder and Navy dentistSubscribe to view
Pat Rogan, Nha Trang Beach, South Vietnam, late 1960sSubscribe to view
Palestinian surfers in GazaSubscribe to view
"You either surf or fight!" Robert Duvall as Col. Kilgore in "Apocalpse Now"Subscribe to view
Marines confiscate boards at Trestles, 1969. Photo: Ron StonerSubscribe to view
Marine staff sergeant Bradon Dotson, Camp Pendleton, San Diego County, 2016. Photo: Hayne PalmourSubscribe to view
John "Doc" Ball, Palos Verdes Surf Club founder and Navy dentist
Pat Rogan, Nha Trang Beach, South Vietnam, late 1960s
Palestinian surfers in Gaza
"You either surf or fight!" Robert Duvall as Col. Kilgore in "Apocalpse Now"
Marines confiscate boards at Trestles, 1969. Photo: Ron Stoner
Marine staff sergeant Bradon Dotson, Camp Pendleton, San Diego County, 2016. Photo: Hayne Palmour