Scottish-born missionary and adventurer James Chalmers was posted to the South Pacific in 1866. The following year, while on the island Niue James, Chalmers tried his hand at surfing. He continued throughout his life to explore, colonize, and proselytize, and gained fame in Europe as "The Livingston of New Guinea. In 1901, however, Chalmers and a missionary colleague were killed and eaten by natives of Goaribari Island, Papua. The short excerpt below is taken from "James Chalmers—Alias Tamate: His Autobiography and Letters," published in 1902.

During our stay on the island, I nearly lost my life. I was greatly interested in the surf swimming, and often watched the lads at it. One day the sea was particularly big, and I determined whilst bathing to try and run in on a sea with a plank. I got too far out, and was sucked back to the big boulders, and the seas washing me about, I got much bruised and cut. I can remember feeling that all was lost, when a great sea caught me, and threw me on to a boulder, and I felt now or never, and with a terrible effort I clung to it, and then rising, gave one spring, and landed where help could come to me. I was picked up and carried to the house. I was in bed for several days. I never again tried surf swimming.

1867: “A GREAT SEA CAUGHT ME,” BY JAMES CHALMERS

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