Australian-born Thomas G. Thrum moved with his family to Hawaii at age 11. He worked as a whaler and a store clerk, and in 1875 began publishing The Hawaiian Almanac and Annual, which he described as "a handbook of valuable and statistical information relating to the Hawaiian Islands." Thrum died in 1932, but the Annual continued until 1974. "Hawaiian Surf Riding" ran in the 1896 edition of the Annual and is credited as the first full-length written account of surfing's place in traditional Hawaiian culture. The first four paragraphs, below, are written by Thrum. The rest of the article is translated from an oral account by a person identified only as "a native of the Kona district of Hawaii." The text has been lightly edited.

Among the favorite pastimes of ancient Hawaiians, that of surf riding was a most prominent and popular one with all classes. In favored localities [throughout the islands], for the practice and exhibition of the sport, “high carnival” was frequently held [with] spirited contests between rivals in this aquatic sport, to witness which the people would gather from near and far; especially if a famous surf-rider from another district, or island, was seeking to wrest honors from their own champion.

Native legends abound with the exploits of those who attained distinction among their fellows by their skill and daring in this sport, [which was] indulged in alike by both sexes, and frequently too the gentler sex carried off the highest honors. These legendary accounts are usually interwoven with romantic incident, as in the abduction of Kalea, sister of Kawaokaohele, Moi of Maui, by emissaries of Lo-Lale, chief of Lihue, in the Ewa district of Oahu; the exploit of Laie-ikawa, and Halaaniani at Keaau, Puna, Hawaii; or for chieftain supremacy, as instanced in the contest between Umi and Paiea in a surf swimming match at Laupahoehoe, which the former was challenged to, and won, upon a wager of four double canoes.

How early in the history of the [Hawaiian] race surf riding became a science with them is not known, though it is a well-acknowledged fact that while other islanders may divide honors with Hawaiians for aquatic powers in other respects, none have attained the expertness of surf sport, which early visitors recognized as a national characteristic of the natives. It would be interesting to know how the Hawaiians, over all others in the Pacific, developed this into the skillful or scientific sport which it became, to give them such eminence over their fellows, for we find similar traits of character, mode of life, mild temperature and like coastlines in many another “island worlds of the Pacific.” That it became national in character can be understood when we learn that it was identified, to some extent at least, with the ceremonies and superstitions of kahunaism, especially in preparations therefor, while the indulgence of the exciting sport pandered to their gambling propensities.

The following descriptive account has been prepared by a native of the Kona district of Hawaii, familiar with the subject. For assistance in its translation we are indebted to M. K. Nakuina, himself no stranger to the sport in earlier days.

Surf riding was one of the favorite Hawaiian sports, in which chiefs, men, women and youth, took a lively interest. Much valuable time was spent by them in this practice throughout the day. Necessary work for the maintenance of the family, such as farming, fishing, mat and kapa making and such other household duties required of them and needing attention, by either head of the family, was often neglected for the prosecution of the sport. Betting was made an accompaniment thereof, both by the chiefs and the common people, as was done in all other games, such as wrestling, foot racing, quoits, checkers, and several others known only to the old Hawaiians. Canoes, nets, fishing lines, 

, swine, poultry and all other property were staked, and in some instances life itself was put up as wagers, the property changing hands, and personal liberty, or even life itself, sacrificed according to the outcome of the match, the winners carrying off their riches and the losers and their families passing to a life of poverty or servitude.


There were only three kinds of trees known to be used for making boards for surf riding, viz.: the wiliwili (

The uninitiated were naturally careless, or indifferent as to the method of cutting the chosen tree; but among those who desired success upon their labors the following rites were carefully observed.

Upon the selection of a suitable tree, a red fish called 

 was first procured, which was placed at its trunk. The tree was then cut down, after which a hole was dug at its root and the fish placed therein, with a prayer, as an offering in payment therefor. After this ceremony was performed, then the tree trunk was chipped away from each side until reduced to a board approximately of the dimensions desired, when it was pulled down to the beach and placed in the 

 (canoe house) or other suitable place convenient for its finishing work.

, which could be gathered in abundance along the sea beach, and a rough kind of stone called 

 were the commonly used articles for reducing and smoothing the rough surfaces of the board until all marks of the stone adze were obliterated. As a finishing stain, the root of the ti plant (

, was the mordant used for a paint made with the root of burned kukui nuts. This furnished a durable, glossy black finish, far preferable to that made with the ashes of burned cane leaves, or 

Before using the board there were other rites or ceremonies to be performed, for its dedication. As before, these were disregarded by the common people, but among those who followed the making of surf boards as a trade, they were religiously observed.

There are two kinds of boards for surf riding, one is called the 

 was made of wiliwili—a very light buoyant wood—some three fathoms long, two to three feet wide, and from six to eight inches thick along the middle of the board, lengthwise, but rounding toward the edges on both upper and lower sides. It is well known that the 

 was only for the use of chiefs; none of the common people used it. They used the 

, which was made of koa, or ulu. Its length and width was similar to the 

, except in thickness, it being but of one and a half to two inches thick along its center.


The line of breakers is the place where the outer surf rises and breaks at deep sea. This is called the 

. Any place nearer or closer in where the surf rises and breaks again, as they sometimes do, is called the 

There are only two kinds of surf in which riding is indulged; these are called the 

. The former is a surf that rises, covering the whole distance from one end of a beach to the other. These, at times, form in successive waves that roll in with high, threatening crest, finally falling over bodily. The first of a series of surf waves usually partake of this character, and is never taken by a rider, as will be mentioned later. The 

 is a very small comber that rises up without breaking, but of such strength that sends the board on speedily. This is considered the best, being low and smooth, and the riding thereon easy and pleasant, and is therefore preferred by ordinary surf riders. The lower portion of the breaker is called 

, or foundation, and the portion near a cresting wave is termed the 

 side, while the distant, or clear side, as some express it, is known as the 

During calm weather when there was no surf there were two ways of making or coaxing it practiced by the ancient Hawaiians, the generally adopted method being for a swimming party to take several strands of the sea convolvulus vine, and swinging it around the head lash it down unitedly upon the water until the desired result was obtained, at the same time chanting as follows:


The swimmer, [after] taking position at the line of breakers, waits for the proper surf. As before mentioned, the first [wave] is allowed to pass by. It is never ridden, because its front is rough. If the second comber is seen to be a good one it is sometimes taken, but usually the third or fourth is best, both from the regularity of its breaking and the foam-calmed surface of the sea through the travel of its predecessors.

 or thick board, on a big surf, the board is pointed landward and the rider, mounting it, paddles with his hands and impels with his feet to give the board a forward movement, and when it receives the momentum of the surf and begins to rush downward, the skilled rider will guide his course straight or obliquely, apparently at will, according to the spending character of the surf ridden, to land himself high and dry on the beach, or dismount on nearing it, as he may elect. This style of riding was called 

 great care had to be exercised in its management, lest from the height of the wave—if coming in direct—the board would be forced into the base of the breaker, instead of floating lightly and riding on the surface of the water, in which case, the wave force being spent, [a] reaction throws both rider and board into the air.

 the rider had to swim out around the line of surf to obtain position, or be conveyed thither by canoe. To swim out through the surf with such a buoyant bulk was not possible, though it was sometimes done with the thin boards, the 

. These latter are good for riding all kinds of surf and are much easier to handle than the 


Various positions [were] indulged in by old-time experts in this aquatic sport, such as standing, kneeling, and sitting. These performances could only be indulged in after the board had taken on the surf momentum and in the following manner. Placing the hands on each side of the board, close to the edge, the weight of the body was thrown on the hands, and the feet brought up quickly to the kneeling position. The sitting position is attained in the same way, though the hands must not be removed from the board till the legs are thrown forward and the desired position is secured. From the kneeling to the standing position was obtained by placing both hands again on the board and with agility leaping up to the erect attitude, balancing the body on the swift-coursing board with outstretched arms.

 is the term used for surf swimming without the use of the board, and was done with the body only. The swimmer, as with a board, would go out for position and, watching his opportunity, would strike out with his hands and feet to obtain headway as the approaching comber with its breaking crest would catch him, and with his rapid swimming powers bear him onward with swift momentum, the body being submerged in the foam; the head and shoulders only being seen. 

 or top of the surf as if riding with a board. [Note: "ride on the 

" mean riding at an angle, instead of straight for shore.]


Canoe riding is another variety of this favorite sport, though not so general, nor perhaps so calculated to win the plaudits of an admiring throng, yet requiring dexterous skill and strength to avoid disastrous results.

Usually two or three persons would enter a canoe and paddle out to the line of breakers. They would pass the first, second, or third surf if they were 

, it being impossible to shoot such successfully with a canoe, but if an 

 is approaching, then they would take position and paddle quickly till the swell of the cresting surf would seize the craft and speed it onward without further aid of paddles, other than for the steersman to guide it straight to shore, but woe be to all if his paddle should get displaced.

Canoe riding has been practiced of late years in mild weather by a number of the Waikiki residents, several of whom are becoming expert in this exciting and exhilarating sport.

, at Hilo, Hawaii, the former right abreast of Kaipalaoa, and the latter off Mokuola (Coconut Island). Punahoa, a chiefess, was the noted surf rider of Hilo during the time of Hiiakaikapoli.

, a deep-sea surf at Keaau, Puna, Hawaii; famed through the feats of Laieikawai and Halaaiani, as also of Hiiakaikapoli and Hopoe.

, at Kailua, Kona, Hawaii, was the favorite surf whereon the chiefs were wont to disport themselves.

, at Heie, Keauhou, Kona, Hawaii, were surfs enjoyed by Kauikeouli (Kamehameha III), and his sister the princess Nahienaena, whenever they visited this, their birthplace.

 at Lahaina, Maui were surfs made famous through the exploits of chiefs of early days.

, at Waikiki, Oahu, used to be the attraction for the congregating together of Oahu chiefs in the olden time.

, at Kapaa, Kauai, through Moikeha, a noted chief of that island is immortalized in the old 

“WORK WAS OFTEN NEGLECTED FOR THE PROSECUTION OF THIS SPORT": AN EXCERPT FROM THRUM'S ANNUAL, 1896

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