"I'M UP AND FLYING ALONG THE WALL OF BLUE WATER" - EXCERPT FROM PAULINE MENCZER'S "SURF LIKE A WOMAN" (2024)
![](https://cdn.sanity.io/images/f1hjpcr4/production/d09ce0bc9d156c617c08d5350550374ce355285e-900x506.jpg?w=900&h=506&q=65&auto=format)
The following excerpt, by Pauline Menczer and Luke Benedictus, is from Menczer's "Surf Like a Woman" autobiography, published in 2024. Menczer, in this 1984 scene, is 14 years old, has been surfing for a year, and has just paddled out at the notorious South Bondi—on a foam Coolite board, because she hasn't yet enough coins from recycling soda cans to buy a real board. "I don't get too fazed by the...
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