FRED VAN DYKE: 1929 - 2015. BIG-WAVE ICON TRADED MACHISMO FOR LOVE

Fred Van Dyke, who died this week at age 86, will be remembered as a pioneering big-wave surfer. I'll remember him for that as well, but more so for how become a more evolved version of himself—a decades-long process that, among other things, saw him make a deliberate break from big-wave surfing. Spending time with Fred for a 2005 Surfer's Journal article was a high point of my career as a writer...