The quotes below were part of a profile titled "Hawaiian Impala: Jimmy Lucas" which ran in the November 1968 issue of Surfing. Lucas was 19.


My mother made me my first board, and as I look back, it was a very good board. A little big by today’s standards, 10-foot, but a good board just the same.


I used to ride for Brewer, but he moved, so now I get my boards from Diffenderfer. I feel a shaper has to watch me ride in order to suit my needs. Diff does this.


I like to keep a board for a while, get used to it, work with it. Changing boards isn’t for me. I like to grow with the board. Sometimes I’ll ride a board for eight months before getting a new one.


The contest system, especially in Hawaii, is something else. It's chaotic and inconsistent here. When I went to the [1966] World Contest in San Diego, I was really impressed. In Hawaii, the judges don’t seem to accept the new styles and radical moves in surfing. However, I think it will all work out.


I’m an AAA surfer in the Hawaiian Surfing Association. That seems a strange way to classify people. I surf because I enjoy it. Like, it’s not a push thing for me. Classifying seems inappropriate in surfing.

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