Chapter: 5
Barefoot Revolution
- Revolution is not a Dinner Party
- The Tao of George
- Getting Slippery with Bob McTavish
- Bismarck with a Tan
- Plastic Machine
- Enlightenment at Honolua Bay
- Panic on the Showroom Floor
- Style Takes a Dive
- Everybody Must Get Stoned
- Surfer Goes Electrical Bananas
- No Contest
- There Will be Slaps
- Kook Straps, Cadillacs, and Sex Wax
- Blame it on the Boogie
- Country Soul
- Higher and Brighter with Alby Falzon
- Fresh Blood on the Newsstand
- Long Road to Bells Beach
- Speed Freaks
- Gods of Thunder
- The Impossible Wave
- Into the Vortex
- Gerry Lopez, Pipeline Firewalker
- The Rubberman Cometh
Into the Vortex
Pipeline. Photo: Jeff Divine
Jock Sutherland, Pipeline, 1969. Photo: Art Brewer
Jock Sutherland (right), 1969. Photo: Art Brewer
George Greenough and camera rig, 1969. Photo: Joe Bright
Longboarding was ridiculous in big, hollow surf. It could be done, but it wasn’t pretty. Butch Van Artsdalen rode Pipeline the way you’d imagine Buddy Rich would play drums with a pair of small tree branches. The shortboard changed that. Tuberiding—like noseriding a few years earlier—became the “sport within the sport,” and Pipeline went from being a “Roman gladiator pit” (as Bruce Brown put it i...
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