Chapter: 7
Long Division
- Return of the Longboard
- Simon Anderson and his Mighty Thruster
- Surf and Destroy
- Terror from Below
- The Unsinkable Tom Carroll
- An Explosion of Talent
- Tom Curren's Mile of Style
- How to Turn a Circus into a Riot
- I Predict Waves in Your Future
- Cult of the Surf Photographer
- Video Killed the Surf Movie
- Waves for Sale
- Surf Boom Redux
- Terminally Hip
- Super-Sizing the World Tour
- Somebody Should Do Something
- Surfers vs Apartheid
- Make Room at the Top, Obrigado!
- The Last Big Wave
- Eddie Aikau's State of Grace
- A Beloved Rival
A Beloved Rival
Ken Bradshaw, Sunset. Photo: Bernie Baker
Mark Foo, 1977. Photo: Warren Bolster
Ken Bradshaw, 1978
Darrick Doerner. Photo: Don King
Mark Foo, Waimea, late '80s
At Sunset Beach, Bradshaw appointed himself as a kind of on-the-spot hanging judge. Mess with one of his waves and you'd be chased down afterward and ordered to dismount so that the huge Texan could palm-smash a fin off your board and order you to leave the water. Nobody resisted.
Incredibly, just weeks after Leonard Brady wrote his 1982 "Whatever Happened to Big-Wave Riding?" article for Surfer, the North Pacific let loose with the greatest run of big-wave surf on record—seven huge pulses arrived at one-week intervals from mid-February to early March. One journal-keeping North Shore veteran later reported that the Waimea Bay was 20-feet or bigger 23 times that season, whic...
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