"Interview: Mark Richards," uncredited, ran in the July 1978 issue of SURFER. This version is shortened and lightly edited.

How do you perceive the current state of the art of surfing?

It's definitely becoming more maneuver-oriented. There was an era of cruising, and it seems that era is past. The average board last year was 6'8"x 19", this year its 6’4" x 20". For a while we got lost in a "flow with it” era, where it was cool to ride a narrow board straight down the line. It was definitely uncool to go out there and bounce off the lip. Possibly what saved us from that was pro contests, where there were surfers making money bouncing off the lip—money breeds respect. These days, go down to any beach and almost everyone is hot-dogging to the max. How do I fit into it? I fit in perfectly because it’s what I've done all my life. I don't like going straight. There's no better buzz than smashing off a lip as hard as I can; overpowering a wave is more fun than flowing with it. Rip, tear and lacerate seems to be the world picture at the moment, mainly, again, due to contests which are maneuver oriented. Inspiration is coming from contests.

How or why did you develop your unique "wounded gull" style?

You've got me—it just happened. My surfing is based on radical moves and placing myself in tight situations. The style evolved from the moves; it molded to them. I think the other radical, maneuver-oriented surfers in the world also have very distinctive styles; look at Shaun or Bugs. Being different is great; no one wants to look the same as the guy surfing next to him. That's why we all drive different motor cars—individual expression

Do you make conscious stylistic adjustments to different wave conditions?

There’s no conscious adjustment style-wise, but there's an adjustment board-wise. The style is not a reflection of the solution; the type of board used is the solution. My line of thought is the same for any wave I encounter. Big or small, clean or mushy, Burleigh or Sunset, I follow the same maneuver pattern. Let's bash off this lip, cutback here, etc; the only thing that changes is the tool under me. The surfboard is the variable.

Yes, all types. Chicken, pork, beef, plus I really enjoy fish.

The '76 Coke, because it was a seven-round format, and I moved into the lead after Round Two, and held 'em all off for five rounds, so it was actually like winning five times. Very enjoyable!

. That was outrageous. I read it in one day; couldn't put it down. I like being active, that's why I don’t read many books—I find it hard to sit and read. I'd rather go surfing or skateboarding.

Yeah. With my surfing, some days I feel invincible, like any maneuver is possible. Other days I feel hopeless, falling off and not flowing the moves together. Same with shaping. Some days the lines fall in beautifully, and others it’s a fight from start to finish. Basically, you can't hold a high level all the time; ups and downs are a part of life.

What things bother you in your lifestyle?

I'd love to own a BMW, but I don't. That's the only thing missing at the moment. No other complaints.

Do you think it’s very important to do many things in life?

I think personal happiness is the greatest thing you can strive for, no matter what your goals may be. What makes one person happy won't necessarily make another one happy. I admire achievers.

There was a marathon runner called Abebe Bikila, from Ethiopia. I saw a documentary about him—he's a machine. I was getting goosebumps watching him. I got goosebumps during the last scene in 

, too. Also Muhammad Ali; I think he's the most amazing man on the planet. And Clint Eastwood, too. I saw 

I’ve been playing squash for the past year. I'd like to play tennis, too, but I can't keep the ball on the court; it either goes on the adjacent court or into outer space. Squash is great, you just bash it and it bounces off the walls and comes back.

Yes, I don’t go anywhere without my portable stereo. I have one beside my bed, one in my car, and one in my shaping room.

I live in Newcastle, it’s the next biggest city after all our capitals. Smack bang in the middle of the city is a giant steelworks, which produces most of Australia's steel, plus we export a lot of coal to Japan. So the city depends on the steelworks; it’s our basic industry. The air isn't too healthy, but it's a fun place to live; plenty of people, plenty of average waves and plenty of places to go at night. It's great, I like it. I live on the street that runs down the middle of the main business area, on top of our surf shop. Out of my bedroom window I have a panoramic view of the ships in the harbor and the smokestacks; out the kitchen window is one lonely tree, so I can tell the wind direction. Home's home, no matter what!

I've got a million acquaintances, but maybe only a handful of friends. When you're traveling a lot, you don't really get a chance to get involved with people; you're just flashing in and out of places; here today, gone tomorrow.

Do you get upset if people criticize you?

Yeah! I get really mad if I don't think it’s constructive. I react heavily.

No, not at all. I get cranky really easy. Screaming the magic four-letter word usually calms me down; it's a great one for letting out emotion.

No, I'm very mellow. But I don't like being pushed by people, and some people push a little too hard. Sometimes I get so mad that I feel like killing someone, and I'll leave the water straightaway when I feel like that.

Do you think about fatal injury on a big day?

Not at all. They're only waves; they can't hurt you. As long as you make it to the surface, you're sweet. If you don't, well, it's all over anyway. The only thing I don't like is having to swim out to Kammies at Sunset when your board goes out in the rip—that's a horror job; being out in the middle of the ocean is no fun!

As long as I can stay flexible I will. I'm very interested to see how long I can hold it for Look at Ben Aipa; he's 33 and still shreds like a 19-year-old, 140-pound kid! It's possible to hold it if you want.

Yeah! I want a son; make him a little twin fin and teach him to terrorize on it; that'd be fun.

I do yoga in the morning when I get up to wake me up. Otherwise, I'm half asleep all day. Plus I do spine exercises every morning to loosen my back.

What do you do if you feel you’re stagnating?

That's easy; you do something totally different; have a break or make a change. Don't ponder the way you're going, that just makes it worse.

How do you feel about the way the planet's going?

I think it's going downhill fast; all our resources are being exhausted, and our last hope, the ocean, will be useless when we need it. The amount of pollution they pour into it is terrible; I cringe every time I think of it.

I enjoy watching them; it's the only chance you get to study people’s surfing. I like watching the way the edges of a board works, the way water flows off the rails. The movies I like I usually see at least three times; the first time is just a visual job, the second and the third are the study sessions

What personal thoughts do you have while surfing?

Am I on or off; am I loose; how do I fit into this crowd situation; who can I hassle, who can't I hassle; are there people watching; am I having fun or am I tense; am I flowing the moves together. All that, plus a million other things. I find I have a lot of time to think in the water, especially when I'm surfing alone. Being alone in the ocean is very peaceful.

Do you think surfers are a strange breed?

Do you get edgy knowing some people like you only because you are at the top of the sport?

Yeah. It's amazing what a difference winning a contest makes; it's night and day. You wouldn't imagine it being like that, but it is. It's a funny thing; it makes you wonder where people are coming from.

Do you think mags are important to surfing?

Yes, definitely. They enable me to know what's happening in different parts of the world. A surfing magazine is actually a trade journal; they're essential from the advertising point of view, plus the international exchange on board design is very important.

I got an electric planer when I was 13; I’m now 21, so I guess that's eight years. But only seriously for the past year. Up until then, I was just playing around having fun with it. Winter '76-'77 in the islands I spent two months working with Dick Brewer; he taught me the A-Z technique of how to shape a board. Up until then, I lacked the method. The ideas were in my head, but my hands couldn't produce. Brewer taught my hands to catch up to my mind—it was a very enjoyable two months, and I'm very grateful to him. He really went out of his way to help me. Brewer's amazing; his depth of knowledge on surfboard design is endless.

How long does it take you to shape a board?

At least six hours. I'm very meticulous; perfect is just good enough. I try to make each board so good that I'd want to ride it myself.

Brewer is a total master. Reno Abellira's immaculate foils. Tom Parrish's boards are super clean and refined, and he's easy to communicate with. Jim Richardson has the best foils on the planet. Ben Aipa's small-wave boards are doing it. Brian Hinde is locally known in the islands and hot. Gerry Lopez is very unique, and Terry Fitzgerald has beautiful outlines.

What's more important to you, surfing or shaping?

They can go hand in hand, but surfing is number one at the moment. I usually surf first thing in the morning, then mainly shape at night. It's quiet and peaceful, with no interruptions or phone calls, easy to concentrate, no distractions. When it really comes down to it, I don’t do much shaping other than my own personal stuff.

Yes, I can airbrush, glass, sand and gloss All of 'em if needed.

At times, you act very relaxed; can you sit in one sport for a long time?

Yes, easily. I'm very low-key, not hyper or aggro at all.

Yeah, but only one: it's all over if I don't catch quality waves. You don't win by letting the other guys get the good ones.

What do you think surfing will be like in Hawaii ten years from now?

Crowded to the max. You'll need a machine gun mounted off the nose of your board to catch waves.

How do you think we should control increasingly crowded surf breaks?

We can't, and who has the right? It's a free world.

Haleiwa, Off-the-Planet (Off-The-Wall), Burleigh, Sunset, Chuns, and Laniakea.

Do you surf every day, no matter what the conditions?

Yeah, I go out in anything, quality doesn't matter. I surf early in the morning and late in the afternoon, every day.

Yes, very easily. There's an amazing amount of pressure associated with contests, especially this year, because they're all being run back to back. I only surf the Australian circuit (Stubbies, Bells, Coke-Surfabout), then I have a break until the Hawaiian season (Smirnoff, Duke. Pipeline Masters, World Cup). I don't want to spend the whole year traveling around the world chasing contests; I enjoy my break in between Oz and Hawaii. I can fall off a wave whenever I like, and not lose any points.

At this rather developed stage in your career, does surfing still offer creative potential?

Mark Richards (1978)

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